Life, 1911-05-11 · page 10 of 44
Life — May 11, 1911 — page 10: what you’re looking at
What you’re looking at
This page satirizes pretentious culinary innovation. The article mocks European haute cuisine's influence on American cooking, particularly in fancy hotels and newspapers like *Ladies' Home Journal*. The two small illustrations show animals (appearing to be a rabbit and a dog) labeled with humorous captions about food preparation—likely poking fun at overly complicated recipes or absurd ingredient combinations. The main text describes increasingly elaborate salad recipes as examples of unnecessary complexity. The satire suggests that while Americans adopted European culinary snobbery, they lost sight of simple, quality food and proper cooking technique. The author argues for practical, flavorful dishes over elaborate presentation and excessive decoration—a critique of culinary pretension masking mediocre results.
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Machine-transcribed from the original scan — historical spelling and the odd misread are preserved.
926 Improving on Brillat-Savarin ASTRONOMY as a tine art is making tremen- dous strides in America, Tho revulsion from the sogyy nd indigestible food pre- red by our fercmothers to give strength and courage to our forefathers has set American ingenuity to work in the line of inventing new dishes. On this account we are — outstripping Zurope’s most fa- mous cordons bleus in devising new schemes of interior decoration. Strangely enough it is not in the kitchens of the great hotels and inagnificent restau- rants that these ade, The new discoveries are being proprictors of those gorgeous institu. tions are too busy devising new schemes 1o lure away the dollars of their patrons 10 pay much attention to such minor matters as the quality of the food and ich it is served. the manner in w The real laboratories in which is be- ing worked out the future gastronomical destiny of the American people are the editorial rooms of the daily newspapers and of such highly practical publications the Ladies’ Home Journal, In these places are devised disbes which are not only calculated to do wonderful things to the human digestive apparatus, but are also marvels in the way of color n. schenies and architectural construc Here, for instance, is a dainty salad which could have been discovered by none but a culinary Columbus: A tasty salad is made with a few tender stalks of celery, a dozen Pup: sav, JACQUES, Wito MELPs you MUTTON UP YOUK BACK IN THK MORN= ixcs? “sie Was UP IN stoned dates and a dozen English walnut meats. all cut’ into” small pieces and mixed with the pulp of three grapefruit. Arrange the mix- ture on white lettuce leaves and dress with mayonnaise. “ It might be That is indeed “tasty. “tastier” for some tastes if it were sprinkled with snuff and decorated around the edges with a few brass sus- pender buttons. Here's another Peach salad with canned fruit is one of the innovations of a Brook- lyn kitchen. The sections of peaches are drained from their liguor and are marinated with lemon juice and a little oil, After fifteen minutes or so the fruit is mixed with blanched almonds that have been shredded very finc—about half a cupful to a can of peaches. The nixture is dressed with mayonnaise mixed with whipped cream and is served on lettuce leaves with whole almonds on the top. AKMS AGAINST MEM” That may be all right for the simple Brooklyn taste, but we think that the xourmets of Ginktown, Ia., and Pooska- loosa, Ga., would prefer a little higher flavor. This might be secured by the addition of six fincly chopped cabbages thoroughly marinated with kerosene oil. A few immortelles scattered over the surface would be picturesque and ap- propriate. Grapefruit’ may be served with Rar le Duc currants in the cavity in the center, with uncooked — sinall oysters and dressed with tomato catsup, grated horseradish and ta- basco.’ No lemon juice is needed. with the acidity of the: fruit. That is quite right. The lemon juice is not needed. The only possible addi tion to this dish would be a few pieces of unfrozen dynamite about the size of 4 peanut, judiciously scattered through. Instead of napkins, shrouds should be ed at the side of each plate.