The Argosy — page 399: what you’re looking at

Machine-transcribed from the original scan — historical spelling and the odd misread are preserved.

378 The Cruse of the Reserve Squadron, Here we, also, made some purchases, but they had not the | interest of our fans at Santiago : guiltless alike of the voluptuousness of Pyramid’s and the refined and pastoral subjects that distinguished Oxford’s and mine; which had so raised, as the reader will remember, the admiration and approval of the ward-room. ‘These from Malaga were mere groups of flowers, moonlight scenes and so forth ; pretty, but not startling ; and we bought them, I believe, more because they were so absurdly cheap than for any other special reason. The streets were many of them narrow and straggling, the houses tall. After our late experiences of Carril and Gibraltar, Malaga looked large and imposing. In situation—bounded on the one side by that grand amphitheatre of hills, on the other by the blue waters of the Mediterranean, which flow up to its very doors—it is highly favoured. Quitting the fan shop, we soon found ourselves on one of the principal squares. We had thought the streets crowded, but here we might have walked on the people’s heads quite easily. It was simply thronged, and a gayer, more exciting scene could hardly be witnessed. The town might have been in revolt, a prey to flames, undergoing a siege —anything, in short, demanding strong measures and vast gatherings ; and yet they were simply enjoying themselves. ‘That, and nothing more. All down the pavement, rows deep, men and women were seated at small tables, drinking, laughing, noisy, overflowing with fun and merriment. The hot night, and the clear, dark blue sky overhead, in which the stars flashed with southern lustre, allowed them to be bareheaded at will and lightly clad. The centre of the © Square as well as the sides, surged with the multitude, and many were idly lounging against the railings that enclosed a monument shaded by weeping willows. Lights flashed around in countless, dazzling profusion. “Surely it is a gala night,” said one of us, “and this a grand illumination P ” ‘Not at all, sir,” replied our guide. ‘It is an ordinary, every- day scene. If it were anything special, you would find a great deal more going on. ‘The Spaniards are wonderful people for enjoying themselves.” This appeared evident. And it was easy to understand that a nation who put so much energy and fire into their simple recreations, would, when roused to riot and revolution, become almost insane and irresponsible for their actions. One large house was resplendent with lights and gilding and the sounds of music. It was the chief café of Malaga, a gorgeous, imposing building; and we entered. Delicious ices they gave us. They Zave delicious ices in Spain, and serve them in tumblers, not wine-glasses—and how grateful are they in that climate! But what enchanted us most as we sat and looked and took it all in—the wonderful, moving crowd, the buzz of excitement, the energy of Gomicbooksneo