The Argosy — page 310: what you’re looking at

Machine-transcribed from the original scan — historical spelling and the odd misread are preserved.

A Drive to the Land’s End. 289 without bodily exertion is sufficient and all satisfying. The strength untaxed, the mind Is at liberty to give all its powers to the enjoyment of the hour; and the memory is more capable of retaining the impres- sions it receives. ‘There is a pleasant sound in the very clatter of the horses’ hoofs, as they trot briskly over the white roads, And the roads in Cornwall are excellent. Hard as iron ; smooth and level as pavement: a matter contributing in no small degcen to the happiness and comfort of the traveller. We started with what sailors would call a fair wind—which to us meant a fair sky. Through the town, past the church, in its nook so like in shape to that delight of a healthy schoolboy, a three-cornered puff; out into the open country. For some distance the scenery was not striking, but at length, we turned into Trelowarran, one of the most lovely places imaginable. An ancient patriarch opened the gates for us, bowed reverently to Z., and we entered a long avenue, where the trees met overhead ; sloping upwards to the right; shutting out the hot, glaring sun, the leaves only admitting here and there a momen- tary beam, to relieve the cool refreshing gloom of the long vista. Below us, to the left, was a steep precipice, at the bottom trees and shrubs of every description. We were travelling on a level with the tops of these trees, which called forth a new and curious sensation. Far down was a large pond of water, half hidden by the intervening verdure. Here, finding the spot so retired and charming, the coachman drew up, and we brought out our picnic basket, which happily had been well stocked under the superintendence of the housekeeper. <A wise precaution when travelling in this part of the country, where you may occasionally have to put up at an inn whose larder will be not only scantily but badly furnished. Quitting Trelowarran, we entered upon the broad open heath or downs, through which the road lay for the most part right up to the Lizard. Being warm, pleasant weather, the breeze was grateful, but on a cold winter’s day or night it sweeps across the unsheltered moor, either towards the sea or from it, with a cruel, cutting force which seems to come straight fromthe North Pole. Not a tree visible for miles ; not a house; not a sign of smallest shelter. Cattle were grazing in scattered groups, and it was a matter for wonder how their owners could find and collect them together again at will. There was much furze about; wild flowers also; and heath with that beautiful] yellow blossom which turns scarlet in fading. But the rare Cornish heath—the most beautiful of all—found only in the neighbourhood of the Lizard, and on the coast of Portugal, was not yet in bloom. In the distance stood the tower of a ruined church, venerable with age, which alone broke the monotony of the surrounding barrenness. Suddenly, in the midst of this wide, wild expanse, uprose a dark bank of clouds. Almost before we could see it, itwas uponus. The VOL. XVII. Gomi EloOOOKS (©) an