Life, 1925-10-22 · page 53 of 74
Life — October 22, 1925 — page 53: what you’re looking at
What you’re looking at
This humorous piece mocks the proliferation of "ethnic" restaurants in America that trade on Swiss (or other foreign) theming while serving standard American fare. The narrator visits a "Swiss Restaurant" expecting authentic Swiss cuisine and atmosphere but finds a waiter speaking in broad ethnic-accented English ("Whaddye want?") who offers only typical diner food: ham and eggs, chops, apple pie, chili con carne, chop suey, and hot dogs. The satire targets two things: (1) restaurants fraudulently claiming ethnic authenticity through mere signage and a single decorative element (a Lion of Lucerne photograph), and (2) the "melting pot" reality where immigrant-run establishments abandon authentic cuisine for mass-market American comfort food. The waiter's final triumphant defense—that they serve "the best sea-food of anywheres in the city"—underscores the joke: even their boast contradicts their Swiss identity. This reflects post-WWI American anxiety about assimilation and commercialized ethnic identity.
📄 Transcribed text from this page (OCR, searchable)
Machine-transcribed from the original scan — historical spelling and the odd misread are preserved.
O Helvetia! HEE sign said “Swiss Restaurant.” But the place itself gave no indica- tion of backing up the sign. It had no sort of Swissful look. However, the chief charm of these novel cating-places is the suspended surprise. “What have you?” [asked the Swiss waiter “Whaddye want?" he replied. “Hammon eggs, small steak, livirin akin, hunka apple pie. ional characteristics are quickly fused in the the New World. xplained, “I want some- melting-pot ¢ “Oh, I thing Swiss.” We the waiter, said nut that was day before Whyncha try a coupla nice had some Swiss cheese,” yestivddy, lamb chop: Bot L want something Swiss.” [ in- sisted “Have you any Swiss chard? va wanna poke inna nose?” asked the waiter, “We ain't booleggers.” “How about some Swiss chocolate I continued hastily, uy mean a cuppa cocoa?” asked the Newly Married Flapper: Gee, 1 MAvE “COME MAN waiter, faint animation. ‘a a cuppa cawfee.” z I said, restaurant or isn't it a with s this a Swiss Swiss restau- rant?” ~ ure,” replied the waiter, “this is the Swiss Restaurant. How about a nice veal cutlet with spaghetti?” A SWELL CAKE YESTERDAY—PUT IN 700 MUCH BAKING POWDER, THOUGH, AND COULDN'T EAT IT. AROUND HERE BALLOON SOUPIN’ ABOUT VER HUSBAND BEIN’ A NEWSPAPER WHY SHOULDN'T HE BE?—THAT’s , ALL HE EVER HAD FOR UNDERWEAR “No!” 1 declared firmly. “I don't want any chili con carne or chop suey cither. I'm on to you. This place is a fake. You haven't any Swish diss— Swiss dishes, and I don't believe cither you or your old man ever from Switzerland.” ‘ame ou leave me old man out of this!” said the waiter. “I'm going to take myself out of it,” ! retorted indignantly. “I came in here for a pleasant Swiss meal with perhaps a little yodeling and bell-ringing on the side. Do I get even a suggestion of it? I do not. This place can't offer anything that isn’t on the menu of the usual hamburg and hot-dog joint. Swiss restaurant!” I said bitterly, starting for the door, “This is no Swiss restaurant.” “It is, too, a Swiss restaurant,” shouted the waiter excitedly. “Do you sce that?” He pointed to a grubby photograph of the Lion of Lucerne. “What's more,” he concluded tri- umphantly, “we serve the of anywheres in the city Henry William Hanemann, There’s the Rob! IRST FLORIDA REALTOR: How much would you say that lot is worth? . OND listening ? best sea-food FLokina Reattor: Who's comicbooks.com