The Argosy — page 60: what you’re looking at

Machine-transcribed from the original scan — historical spelling and the odd misread are preserved.

Letters from Majorca. 47 low, picturesque shores of Majorca. The approach to the port was very fine. ‘The town was backed by splendid hills, some flowing and undulating, others sharp in outline. On a lower range reposed a dignified castle, and below this, on green slopes, a cluster of houses that looked dazzlingly white in the morning sunshine. Here people take refuge during the summer. We rounded the point, and steamed upwards into the harbour. The cathedral, almost overlooking the sea, stood out boldly—a very remarkable object. A first view of Palma gave one a decidedly Eastern impression. White houses with flat roofs, many of them crowned by great cages for pigeons, stretched far and near. A Gothic, castellated building on the port almost rivalled the cathedral in interest. This proved to be the ancient Exchange, long since fallen into disuse. It was a most picturesque scene; bright, sunny, full of charm, and apparently full of promise. The harbour was crowded with shipping ; the quays were full of liveliness and work. Wonderfully bright and blue was the sky, rivalling the blue waters of the Mediterranean, over which we were gliding. Before long, the steamer was at anchor, and we set foot in Palma. But my letter has drawn out to impossible length, and I must end for to-night. I will only add that of the enclosed sketches, one is a slight drawing of a bit of Barcelona Cathedral, which does it infinite injustice. The other three are H. C.’s, whose fine touch and splendid talent I greatly envy. Two of them are views of wonderfully picturesque courts with which Palma simply abounds; the other is a view of a street, and will give you some idea of the richness of detail of some of these singular and romantic thoroughfares. They have a curious custom all over Majorca. A watchman patrols the town through the night, crying out, in tones that would drive a melancholy man mad, and a merry one gloomy: ‘‘ Thanks be to God, the town is in peace, and the night is fine:” varied by: “It is half past one in the morning and the night is serene,” or words to that effect. Amongst the people he is known as /7 Sereno; a very pretty title ; because in this favoured clime he has more often than not to proclaim the night serene. He perambulates with a lantern, like another Diogenes. In spite of his melancholy tones, one likes to listen to him. It is the old custom, slightly varied, of ‘‘ Watchman, what of the night?” As I write, I hear him, and he reminds me that it is—not late, but early. So I will end by wafting you a far off benediction.—May all good angels have you in their holy keeping! COnnicboooks (SO) im