The Argosy — page 58: what you’re looking at

Machine-transcribed from the original scan — historical spelling and the odd misread are preserved.

Letters from Majorca. A5 octrois of our childhood, when our carriage would be so often stopped on returning into the towns, whilst the fierce mien of the uniformed official would strike terror to our young minds lest our chocolates and bonbons should be confiscated. We were soon packed inside the hotel omnibus, and some of the streets we rattled through were so narrow that we literally sometimes grazed the houses on each side. Barcelona was very Spanish in appearance: a singular remark, you will say, of a Spanish town. Many of the thoroughfares were very picturesque from a certain ancient, dilapidated, poverty-stricken aspect. ‘The wider thorough- fares, like the Rambla, were crowded with hurrying people. It was mid-day, and, one saw at once from the general activity of the place that Barcelona was given up to busy ways, and that grass did not grow in her streets. The omnibus having swirled round half a dozen times until we were giddy and stupid, finally deposited us at the hotel. The day was very bright, and the streets were hot and blazing. In England you would probably have been glad of some of our superfluous heat, for you were all suffering very much from “indoor” weather, and a series of depressions, of course prophesied from America. Our stay in Barcelona was a short one, and I shall tell you very little about it. At any time I think two days would be enough to devote to its attractions, though there are some fine excursions to be done in the neighbourhood. We thought it hot and relaxing, and not very healthy, all of which I believe to be a fact. There are many quaint and curious bits about; some good old architecture, but very little to remind you of the rule of the Moor in Spain. No doubt the glory of Barcelona is its cathedral, with which you would have been wonderfully impressed, as we were. It is Gothic, with a west end that, like that of Bordeaux, has never been finished. The exterior, though possessing some rich ornamentation, is not particularly striking, but the interior at once fills you with a certain solemn awe and admiration. It is cruciform, and divided into three lofty and imposing naves. A dim religious light throws over the whole building a sense of mystery. Massive pillars rise to a great height, but gain a certain grace and lightness from the slender shafts they support. ‘The capitals are richly ornamented, and hold the arches that form the vaulted roof. |The whole interior is of splendid proportions, of great height and width. In the obscurity one almost loses the lofty roof, upheld by its chaste and beautiful piers. The octagon at the west end is a dream of loveliness and refinement. ‘To gaze upon it from the far side of the choir, between the fluted pillars ; to trace curves and arches and all the wonderful details interlining and dovetailing ; to catch it in the light and shade thrown by the white glass and the coloured rays of the stained win- dows: is to lose oneself in a vision that is almost unearthly. The tone of the interior is marvellous ; refined and mellowed and sub- COMIC OOO SS (SO)