The Argosy — page 146: what you’re looking at

Machine-transcribed from the original scan — historical spelling and the odd misread are preserved.

Among the Welsh. 131 of interest is the ruin of Rhuddlan Castle, a mere shell, with several round, massive, ivy-grown towers. But it stands well out against the clear background of the sky, overlooks the valley from its elevation, and is washed by the waters of the river. Low hills rise on the right, and a higher range beyond. A battle was fought here in 795 between the Welsh and the Saxons, and’ the poor Welsh had the worst of it.. The castle, probably, was not built in those days, though its date is uncertain. The village of Rhuddlan adjoins the ruin. It has seen better days. All its glory has departed. But on one of the houses there is an inscription which states that Edward I. held Parliament there. Passing this house, and going down hill, you cross the old bridge that dates back I know not how many centuries, and turn into the road for St. Asaph. Before reaching it you pass Bodelwyddan church, one of the chief objects of interest in this neighbourhood, and certainly one of the most perfect little churches in England. If not warned beforehand, one is amazed at finding so much beauty and refine- ment, so costly a building, in this out-of-the-world spot. Scarcely a house is to be seen near it, except the parsonage, and the graceful spire becomes a conspicuous object for miles round. ‘The interior is an exquisite blending of many-coloured marbles and stained-glass windows ; rich streams of subdued light fall upon the marble pave- ment and carved woodwork, and though the church has been opened ‘twenty-five years, it 1s all as fresh and as pure as though it had been completed yesterday. Leaving this beautiful building with reluctance, we continued our way to St. Asaph. ‘The town is nothing more than a village, but it is very prettily situated on rising ground, whilst the river flows at its feet. The cathedral itself is not very interesting, but the See is ancient, and dates back to the sixth century. The best portion of the building, perhaps, is the chapter house in the south wing, with its long table and old chairs, and wonderful old books. There was something very quaint and pleasant about the little town itself ; an indescribable feeling that seemed more an influence than a positive reality ; a quiet atmosphere that promised rest and _ repose. And there are times in our lives when nothing is so suggestive of happiness and luxury and paradise, as a Sleepy Hollow. Not that ‘St. Asaph could ever be a Sleepy Hollow, for it is a city set on a hill ; but if there can bea superlative to a Sleepy Hollow it must be a Sleepy Height. After a pause at the inn opposite the cathedral, which I think was ‘called the Plough—the interests and affections of St. Asaph are appa- rently agricultural rather than clerical—we went on our way to the ‘Cefn caves; and if the caves did not reward us for our trouble, the drive itself did. It led through lanes and high banks and luxuriant trees. Lands undulating and richly wooded were on either hand, and everything announced the fertility of this lovely valley of the Clwyd. GOmilGaooks (CO) am