The Argosy — page 152: what you’re looking at

Machine-transcribed from the original scan — historical spelling and the odd misread are preserved.

138 Ltrom Salsburg to Gastein.: the Tyrol, where there is no railroad, this is a consideration not to be lost sight of. Another consideration is, the importance of travelling with the smallest possible amount of luggage. This the Germans never forget. Sometimes I have charitably concluded that they must have brought with them at leasta change of linen; but from the extent of their baggage it would have puzzled a conjuror to discover where it was stowed away. The English more frequently find their unwieldy trunks (not small in number by way of balance) have cost them in the end far more than they cost themselves: and certainly infinitely more trouble and anxiety. Herr Jung, the landlord of the Hotel de l’Europe, strongly advocated a carriage in preference to the diligence. Indeed, he went beyond the boundary of mere counsel, and agreeably settled the matter by saying that it was the only course to be adopted, and that he would make it his business to select an easy conveyance and a good coachman. We were loath to leave a place so beautiful, and could scarcely have done — so, but that it was in our plan to return to it again. It would be impossible to speak too highly of the hotel, of its comfort and good management ; and of its unrivalled site. Afternoon had set in when we started for Gastein, in an open car- riage, at the quiet pace of a pair of horses. Golling, that evening's destination, ought to be reached about seven o’clock: and I was anxious to get there before nightfall, for the purpose of visiting a famous water- fall in the neighbourhood. In time we reached the village of Hallein, at the foot of the Dirren- berg, noted for its salt mines. I had entered a salt mine at Berchtes- gaden, and felt no desire to repeat the experiment. In most respects it was disappointing, fulfilling none of those visions of lofty caverns, and stately pillars, and grand arches, blazing and flashing hke diamonds, that somehow float in the mind in connecticn with the subject. Ex- plored also by many ladies, none surely would be bold enough to ven- ture did they but know what lay before them. Sliding down a very long, steep incline of wood, astride on the back of a miner, at a breathless rate, is one of the inevitable and not very feminine feats to be performed during the inspection. Without halting at Hallein, we drove on through scenery growing each moment more wild and grand. Crossing the Salza and ascending the right bank, the valley narrowed ; and soon was perceived nising, the wild tnass of the Tannengebirge, a long uninterrupted chain of mountain- The next village was Kuckl; and between six and seven o’clock Golling was entered, and that day’s journey came to an end. The quaintest village ever seen: consisting of one long, winding street ; a crude, unworldly aspect about the houses, which all resembled each other, and gave to the place a primitive appearance that reminded you of nothing so much as a Quaker-settlement. Every house was ECORNICLOOO SS (CO) mn —_)